Jewelry design related knowledge and manufacturing process
4 thoughts on “Jewelry design and manufacture”
Leave a Comment
You must be logged in to post a comment.
Jewelry design related knowledge and manufacturing process
You must be logged in to post a comment.
I. the processing technology of jewelry can be divided into two categories: precious metal jewelry processing technology and gemstone inlaying technology
II. Precious metal processing technology can be divided into traditional manual processing technology, machine processing technology and surface treatment technology
III. The traditional manual processing technology mainly includes the filigree process, the machine processing technology includes the wax loss casting process, stamping process, machine chain process, etc., and the surface treatment process includes the electroplating process and embossing process
process subdivision
1. Manual processing process filigree process filigree process refers to the fine gold process that uses metal filaments to make shapes through winding, pinching, silk, stacking and other means. When making, first pull the metal such as gold or silver into the required thick and thin wire, and then twist the pulled wire into strands (called "twisted wire" in the industry). The fabricator pinches the wire into various patterns with tweezers according to the pattern of the drawing. The parts of various shapes are gathered together, and the solder powder is sprinkled on the wire, that is, they are welded together to form a certain overall shape. This overall shape is called "black tire". After being washed with dilute acid, the black tire also needs to be subjected to subsequent processing such as silver, blue, gold or silver plating, and finally becomes a finished product. Filigree jewelry is thin, delicate and full of connotation, and has excellent myopia effect
2. Machining process (1) lost wax casting process lost wax casting is the most important production process in the jewelry industry today, and the jewelry made by lost wax casting has also become the mainstream product of jewelry today. The pouring Tao process is suitable for jewelry with obvious concave and convex shapes, and can be produced in large quantities. The process flow of wax loss casting is: making metal model - pressing rubber mold - wax injection mold - planting wax tree - casting gypsum mold - casting casting. (2) Stamping process stamping process is also known as die stamping and embossing, which is a kind of relief pattern manufacturing process. The steps are as follows: first, a mold is made according to a master mold, and then a relief pattern is made on the metal by pressure. Stamping process flow: imprinting pattern, forming (bending), and connecting each other (usually with solder). Stamping process is applicable to ornaments with concave and convex bottom, such as small lock pieces, or articles that have no obvious undulation and are easy to be stamped or combined in two or more steps. In addition, extremely thin parts and jewelry requiring delicate detail patterns also need to be processed by stamping process. (3) Machine chain processing technology machine chain processing technology refers to the method of using machinery to process chain jewelry. Common necklaces such as Venice chain, bead chain and ripple chain are all machined. The main process flow of machining chain is: wire drawing - chain making - Welding - surface treatment - assembly - cleaning. The machine chain process is characterized by large processing batch, high efficiency, many styles and good quality. Nowadays, the necklace jewelry in the market has been almost occupied by the mechanism necklace
3. Surface treatment process of precious metal jewelry precious metal jewelry should be treated at the final stage of its production to achieve ideal artistic effect. There are many methods of surface treatment, mainly including engraving, gold coating, electroplating, turning (milling), sandblasting, etc. (1) Electroplating process electroplating process is a processing method for surface plating of precious metal jewelry, such as gold plating of silver jewelry and rhodium plating of platinum jewelry. The main process of jewelry electroplating processing method is: acid-base washing - degreasing polishing - electroplating. Electroplating process can protect the surface color and brightness of precious metal jewelry, and make the jewelry have a more beautiful appearance. (2) Gold wrapping process: the gold wrapping process is to wrap the hammered extremely thin gold foil layer by layer on the non gold ornaments, then heat it, and press the gold foil firmly on the surface of the ornaments with tools without leaving seams. The appearance of gold ornaments is very similar to that of gold ornaments. Gold coating process is also a common means of jewelry surface treatment. (3) Chisel carving process chisel carving process is a process of using a chisel to make a pattern on the surface of precious metal with a hammer by hand. The pattern can be deep or shallow, uneven and rough. (4) Turning (milling) the process of using a high-speed rotating diamond milling cutter to carve shiny horizontal and vertical stripes on the surface of ornaments and arrange them into patterns is called turning or milling. Because the diamond milling cutter is very hard, the strips milled out are bright and shiny. The so-called "flash ring" or "flash Pendant" is processed by car flower technology and is very popular. (5) Sand blasting uses high pressure to spray fine quartz sand on the exposed polished metal surface, resulting in a hazy and soft surface process
the commonly used inlay methods for firmly connecting metals and gemstones mainly include claw inlay, wrapping inlay, forced inlay, nail setting, mixed inlay, etc. Claw inlay is suitable for inlaying the faceted main stone with large particles. This inlay method is hollow and bottomless, with obvious light transmission, small amount of gold, convenient processing, and not very strict on the size of gems. However, due to the large weld junction, it is better to add a backing to cover the weld junction during design. Claw inlay includes two claws, three claws, four claws or six claws. It is convenient to inlay, but it is not very firm compared with wrapping inlay
the inlaying and gripping stones are firm and suitable for convex stones or follow-up stones that are difficult to grasp, including full inlaying and half inlaying. However, the inlaying requires that the stone shape is very consistent with the inlay mouth, and it is difficult to modify. Forced setting and nail setting are mainly used for small stone setting. Forced setting is mainly used for small square stone group setting, while nail setting is mainly used for small round stone group setting, including horse eye nails and plum blossom nails. The combination of different inlaying methods on the same piece of jewelry is called mixed inlay. This inlay method can combine large stones and small stones harmoniously and flexibly handle high and low positions and various curvatures
Jewelry processing process quality evaluation
when customers buy jewelry, the salesperson has the responsibility to help them check the quality and help them buy high-quality products. Different process types of jewelry have different emphasis on quality inspection. The specific conditions are as follows:
(1) the process quality requirements of filigree inlay jewelry: smooth wire pinching, even and flat silk, and no skew and distortion of metal wire. (2) The technological quality requirements of wax lost casting jewelry: the surface is smooth, without sand holes and cracks, and the metal surface is well decorated. (3) Process quality requirements of car flower jewelry: the pattern is beautiful and natural, evenly distributed, with clear layers and smooth overall. (4) Process quality requirements for stamping Jewelry: smooth surface, good polishing, no pores, dense and hard, fine concave parts, good decoration, and sharp edges
(5) process quality requirements for inlaying Jewelry: the gemstone inlay should be straight and straight, the main stone and auxiliary stone should not be loose, and there should be no stone falling, and the gemstone and the tooth mouth should be seamless; The edging is uniform and smooth, the height and length of the inlay claw are moderate, and the positioning is uniform and the distribution is reasonable; The height of the tooth mouth shall be consistent with the size and thickness of the gemstone, and the bottom support shall not be exposed when viewed from above; The jewelry bracket shall be free of deformation and deformation, and the surface shall be free of scratches, and the crack and fracture shall not be reproduced
jewelry design trend
with the progress of science and technology, the change of modern life style, especially the influence of modern art ideas, jewelry design has made great progress. Jewelry designers try to follow the trend of the times and look for natural, simple and pure things in the colorful world in order to achieve the artistic realm of returning to simplicity and expressing a kind of eternal beauty. The three major trends of jewelry design and manufacturing are simplicity, decoration and returning to nature
(1) modeling modern art jewelry is developing towards simplicity, geometry and abstract decoration in modeling. Designers skillfully use simple and bright lines, three-dimensional space structure and abstract geometric modeling to express an unexpected idea. Each piece of exquisite jewelry is actually a small sculpture, or even a perfect round sculpture. No matter how people appreciate it, they can get a visual enjoyment
(2) theme: with the rapid development of social telecommunications, network, information transmission and high technology, the culture and art of all ethnic groups in the world are often alienated. People have an indescribable pressure on modern materials caused by cutting-edge technology, and they are anxious about the rapid changes, competition and environmental pollution in modern society. People hope to get a kind of peace from the bottom of their hearts and yearn for a warm oasis emotionally, In jewelry design, people advocate classical art and retro style, pursue traditional style and national characteristics, and advocate returning to nature and simplicity. These will become eternal themes. In order to express this theme, those beautiful flowers and plants, lovely animals and simple ethnic patterns will be more used in jewelry design
(3) materials with the development of society, people will no longer stick to traditional expensive materials in jewelry materials. New materials emerge in endlessly, including organic materials and inorganic materials, and even materials that can be obtained by bowing to the head, which will give the works richer connotation and strong expression. For example, titanium, a material rarely used in the past, can change into rich colors after being heated, which is very layered and often adopted by some modern jewelry masters
(4) processing technology modern jewelry manufacturing is no longer confined to the traditional wax loss casting and decorative carving process. As long as the work needs, artists can adopt more industrial processing methods, such as turning, milling, planing, grinding, riveting, drilling, electroplating, sandblasting, corrosion, etc. these processing technologies will bring unexpected effects to jewelry manufacturing
(5) designers of personalized production of modern jewelry are not satisfied with the previous way of just painting and leaving the production to the craftsman. Instead, they try to express their individuality and regard the whole production process as the process of completing their creation. Most of their works are handmade in their own studios, supplemented by precision machining. The artist integrates his unique inspiration and exquisite craftsmanship. A successful work is the crystallization of perfect and excellent design and metalworking technology
this is only some very general information. You'd better buy a book with professional knowledge.
If you want to design a jewelry by yourself,
I recommend that you go to a jewelry company. They have this service.
because I used to like a pendant very much, but I can't find it outside.
later, my friend introduced me to customize it in a jewelry company.
and the customized effect is as beautiful as I imagined.
if you are interested, You can go to see or learn about them.
you can search their company name on Google or Baidu, and you can see their official website.
their company name is xingshiman
You have a lot of knowledge about jewelry design and production when you attend the China Jewelry Design Forum
Basic theory of jewelry
definition and classification of jewelry
1. Definition of jewelry:
1. Early definition; In the early period, jewelry refers to holding ornaments on the head. In the old days, China also called jewelry headgear, such as comb, hairpin, crown, etc.
2. Modern definition; Also known as jewelry in a narrow sense, it refers to jewelry made of various metal materials or gems and jade materials, which is matched with clothing to play a decorative role. Because
Jewelry mostly uses rare and precious metals and jewelry, it has high value. However, most of the clothes referred to now are mainly woven, and a variety of low-value materials
are also used. This is clearly different from jewelry
3. Broad definition; It refers to ornaments made of various metal materials, gemstone materials, organic materials and imitations to decorate the human body and its related environment. It can be seen that jewelry in a broad sense has included part of the scope of jewelry and decoration, or that the "three" have become one, which is the development direction of the jewelry industry today. With the acceleration of social rhythm, the boundary between new materials and new concepts not entering jewelry is becoming more and more blurred
II The classification of jewelry
there are many standards for jewelry classification, and each has its own opinion, but the most important one is to classify jewelry according to materials, process means, uses, decorative parts, etc
1. Classification by material:
A: metal
A. precious metal:
1 Gold: full gold. 22k.18k.14k.10k.9k.8k
2 platinum: pt999.pt990.pt950.pt900.pt850.pt750
3 silver: pure silver, grain silver (925)
B. common metals:
1. Iron (mostly stainless steel)
2. Nickel alloy
3. Common metals copper and its alloys
4. Aluminum magnesium alloy, tin alloy
B. non metals
A. leather, rope, silk
B. plastics, rubber
C. non metals, animal bones, shells
D. wood, Plant fruits
E. gemstones and various colored stones
F. glass and ceramics
2. Classification by technological means:
A. inlay
A. high grade gemstones
diamonds, emeralds, red sapphires, emeralds, cat's eyes, pearls
B. middle grade gemstones
aquamarine, tourmaline, danquan stone, natural zircon, spinel, etc.
C. low grade gemstones
garnet, topaz, crystal, olivine, lapis lazuli, Turquoise, etc.
B. non inlaid type
A. full Gold:
full gold, full platinum
B. K gold:
3. Classification by use:
A. popular jewelry
A. popular fashion: pursue the commodity of jewelry
B. personalized fashion: pursue the artistry and personalization of jewelry
B. art jewelry
A. collection: exaggerated, not easy to wear, for collection
B. decoration: for display
C. wearing: practical art jewelry
4. Classification by decoration part:
A. hair accessories: including hairpins, hairpins, etc
B. crown decoration: crown, cap micro
C. Earrings: earrings, earrings, earrings
D. face ornaments: ornaments including nose (see Indian ornaments)
E. necklaces: including necklaces and collars
F. bra: pendant, chain, brooch, tie clip
g. hand accessories: including rings, bracelets, bracelets and cufflinks
h. waist accessories: belt, belt head
I. foot ornaments: anklets, bracelets, etc.